Skin Moisturizers

An Overview Of Skin Moisturizers

Overview:

The water content of the skin varies but for the epidermis it is approximately 80%, this is the same water content as in other cells. The very surface of the skin, the stratum corneum, is made up of dead skin cells and this layer is much drier, with the water content varying between 10-30%. The stratum corneum, when it is dry, will tend to lose its luster and produce what we know as dry skin. In normal circumstances there will be movement of water from the dermis up through the more superficial layers of the skin, the water then in turn will evaporate. Skin that has low water content will dry and fissure, this makes it more prone to both bacterial and fungal infection. Moisturizers are designed to reduce water loss from the epidermis. These do not reverse sun damage but they do prevent further dryness. They also can protect the barrier to soot and dirt and there is a temporary feeling of smoothness when these are used. The skin may swell slightly and cause some loss of fine wrinkles. The pores may appear to be smaller because of this swelling. Moisturizing is not required for those with oily skin. Not every skin will be dry, there is the occlusive layer that waterproofs the skin. This is called the stratum corneum. This is essentially a fat protein sandwich, sebum that is secreted from the oil glands will also have a moisturizing effect on the skin. Moisturizers are essentially a combination of occlusive and humectants. There are a number of different skin types that require different skin care.

Dry Skin:

Dry skin is more commonly seen in lighter coloured individuals. Moisturizing should be applied to the skin after washing. It should be used when the weather is cold, small amounts of moisturizer should be applied, and it is best to have multiple applications rather than using an excessive amount at one time.

Moisturizing Of The Hands:

Moisturizers that are best used for the hands will have an oil-based silicone. This is a water repellent. It also will not allow the normal fats of the surface of the skin to be washed away. These products protect the skin even after washing the hands.


Skin Moisturizers For Different Skin Types

Oily Skin:
The moisturizers for patients with oily skin should be non-comedogenic or oil-free. See also http://www.mildcleanser.ca/

Dry Skin:
There are a small percentage of people who actually have dry skin on their face, these people will be dry on the cheeks and jawline. Many of these patients work outside in rough elements, and many of these people are over 50 years of age. For these patients a creamy moisturizer in a lotion or cream is very effective. If they do not have sensitive skin, they can wear whatever products feels good. The reason for the paucity of dry skin on the face, is that there is an abundance of sebaceous glands on the face to prevent dryness. These are particularly active in young people, in men, and in many normal women. If a person is scaly in the center of the face central forehead, around the nose, and on the central chin, this may be seborrheic dermatitis. The use of a heavy moisturizer in people who have central facial dandruff (seborrheic dermatitis) could lead to acne.

Normal - Combination Skin:
Most people have oily skin on the forehead, nose, and chin (called th T-zone), and dryer skin on the cheeks and neck. When the humidity is low, it may be necessary to moisturize the face. The most prudent of patients ,male or female, will select a non-comedogenic moisturizer which contains a minimum SPF of 15 in it for daily use. There are legions of such products reasonably priced, which will prevent cancer and photoaging.

Moisturizers - Body Skin:
Because there are very few sebaceous (oil) glands on the arms and legs, moisturizers are very important. Winter, dry climates, and windy climates are very hard on the skin of the body. Many body lotions incorporate sunblocks for a daily routine. This is very important for sun exposed skin. Often heavy moisturizers such as petrolatum Aquaphor, Cetaphil cream, Neutrogena Norwegian Formula, and other Jar or tube moisturizers are needed for dry climates. What may be appropriate for facial skin may be too thin for the arms, legs, hands, and feet.

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Oil Free Cosmetics

The best types of cosmetics to use for oily or acne prone skin, are either oil-free cosmetics or non-comedogenic cosmetics. Oil-free cosmetics mean products that contain little or no ingredients such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl esters, oleic acid, stearic acid, petrolatum and lanolin (especially acetylated lanolin, alcohol’s and lanolin fatty acids). The label on the cosmetic should state that it is oil-free. This implies that the product has been formulated with no oleaginous ingredients. These products would be appropriate for oily or acne prone skin. For a small number of people, acne may still flare up, to feel better about yourself, you may want to consider using cosmetics to cover up your acne. You should remember that not all skins react alike to the same cosmetic. Oily foundations give the best and longest coverage, but tend to make acne worse.

Suggestions:

- You can use water based creams or alcohol based liquids under your foundation
- Matte or semi-matte, oil-free foundations are the best choices
- Sheer or transparent foundations are usually recommended for comodonal (blackhead) acne
- Fuller foundations (opaque) may be needed for red lesions or scars
- You can mix loose transparent powders (of appropriate tone) into the foundation to give better and longer coverage
From: Cosmetics in Dermatology, Draelos 2nd Ed.

Skincare With Non-Comedogenic Cosmetics

Non-comedogenic cosmetics are products which have been tested on the oily skins of human volunteers or inside rabbit ears. These products are less likely to cause blackheads (open comedones) or whiteheads (closed comedones) in patients. However, no single product is non-comedogenic for everyone. For example, a person with very oily skin may still get skin breakouts from products that another person with mildly oily skin may find non-comedogenic. A better term may be non-acnegenic rather than non-comedogenic, but this is not so widely used. It is important to test a new product on your own skin rather than rely on the label, before using it freely.

Moisturizers:
There are moisturizers labeled oil-free which have a very thin consistency. Examples of these are Nutraderm and Colladerm. These have been tested in old animal models and have been proven to be oil-free. Most people who are acne-prone or who have oily skin do not even need these products. There are moisturizers labeled non-comedogenic which are usually thicker than the oil-free products, these may be suitable when the ambient humidity is dry. When the patient is exercising or if the air is hot and humid, these moisturizers may be comedogenic.

Cleansers:
There are some products, which are suitable for oily skin, most liquid cleansers are not as helpful for oily skin as bar soaps or synthetic detergents. Some deodorant soaps or cleansers may be helpful for oily skin. Care must be taken not to over dry the skin with a strong cleanser for fear that the skin will re-bound with extra oil. Often a good gentle face bar soap, (e.g. Neutrogena bar, Dove, Oil of Olay) gentle cleansers such as Cetaphillotion, antibacterial cleansers such as Tersaseptic, or Aquanil cleanser will be more likely to allow for patient satisfaction. When the patient actually has acne and not just oily skin, many acne cleansers are available. Neutrogena, Clinique, Medicis, Aveeno, Stiefel, and many other companies have cleansers made specifically for acne. There are benzoyl peroxide cleansers in the form of 5 and 10 % bar soaps and liquid cleansers, which are very effective in controlling acne breakouts.

Visit - www.MildCleanser.ca for more information


Foundations:
Foundations for acne prone skin are often formulated to be like a shake lotion the color contents settle on the bottom while the opaque or clear solution is on the top. The bottle is shaken before the foundation is applied, these are the least elegant oil free cosmetics. Most foundations remain mixed together but are not heavy or thick. It is not necessary to have poor coverage in foundations for oily or acne prone skin. Titanium dioxide is the ingredient which allows for better coverage, and that ingredient is not oily, varying amounts of starch and kaolin will thicken up the products without causing acne. For patients who actually have acne prone skin, the addition of 1-2% salicylic acid may be partially therapeutic. For patients who need a blotter for the excess oil in their skin, extra amounts of starch, kaolin, and polymers which absorb sebum may be added.

Sunscreens:
The active ingredients of sunscreens UVB blockers such as Cinnamates, Octocrylene, Salicylates, and UVA blockers such as Benzophenones, Parsol 1789 (avobenzone), micronized zinc or titanium dioxide, are not themselves comedogenic. These ingredients can be incorporated into foundations, non-comedogenic moisturizers, and oil-free bases. The least comedogenic sunscreens are usually formulated into gel formulations for example, Presun Ultra SPF 30 Gel, or Shade 30 Gel.